Harry Potter First Editions – Are They Valuable?

Gen X and Millennials love their books and toys, but don’t we all? My Harry Potter First Editions Hit Biggeneration loves their Barbies and G. I. Joes. The 70’s and 80’s collectibles of Star Wars toys are also setting records. My nieces fell in love with Harry Potter books when their grandmother (my mom, Mary Helen) bought them the first American printing of J. K. Rowling’s, “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” in October 1998. Each new release “MeMe” bought them the new book. That American first printing of The Sorcerer’s Stone is now worth about $6500 (it has its dust jacket and is in fine to near fine condition).

The second book, “Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets” can be worth Harry Potter Chamber of Secretsup to $9000. If you are among the few who happen to have a First Printing First Edition of the UK edition of the first book, which was called, “Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone”, you really have a treasure! Auction prices for this book have been rising dramatically over recent months. Heritage Auctions in Dallas sold one on September 14 for $81,250. This particular book did not have a dust jacket, but was in fine condition. The reason the UK editions are worth so much more than US printings is due to the number printed. The first printings of this book in the UK only consisted of 500 books and 300 of them were distributed to libraries. The publisher had no idea that the book would be so popular. When the book was successful in the United Kingdom, United States publishers printed thousands of books on the first release; hence, the lower value. The first four books in the Harry Potter series are highly sought after. The value goes down with each release due to large numbers that are available, but they are still worth several hundred dollars. The original list price was $25.95.

How do you tell if you have a first printing of the first edition of a Harry Potter book? Go to the copyright page and look at the series of numbers printed on that page. A UK printing should have a print line that reads “10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1” and credits of “Joanne Rowling” rather than JK. Hardcover first editions of the American version of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone—check for the number line of 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 8 9/9 0/0 01 02″ on the copyright page, along with “Printed in the U.S.A.23″ and “First American edition, October 1998. The third book, “Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban”, had some early prints of this book mistakenly printed with “Joanne Rowling” rather than “JK Rowling” on the copyright page. Naturally, this screw-up renders this version of the book far more valuable—signed copies in excellent condition can go for up to $12,000. Again, look for that 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 number line. For the fourth book, “Harry Potter Goblet of Fireand The Goblet of Fire”, look for the limited editions with original watercolor illustrations by Giles Greenfield (Bloomsbury’s UK edition) and Mary GrandPre (Scholastic’s US edition, of which only 25 copies were made). They will be worth four digits. A first edition, first US Printing book should fetch three digits. Look for the 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 and 0/0 01 02, etc. It will have a maroon board with a black cloth binding. The number 4 will be embossed in gold on the binding and the dust jacket. The original price of $25.95 will be printed on the inside fold, upper corner of the dust jacket.

I happen to have a client who has a US first printing of this fourth book for sale for $150. Let me know if you are interested.

How To Start a Collection

One can start a collection of almost anything and spend as much or as little Having Fun Collectingmoney as desired. What do you love? What interests do you find enjoyable? Do you enjoy the hunt? Starting a collection with no more investment than your time and energy is easy, if you enjoy treasure hunting. Whether it be scoping the beach for seashells or things that get washed up on shore or digging in the dirt of an old farm or landfill in search of bottles and discarded items of long ago, one can find things that tell a story and can make an interesting collection. Just two or more things that have something in common is all you need to begin a collection.

You can also satisfy the need for the thrill of the hunt through shopping flea markets, garage sales, estate sales, antique stores, and auctions. Do your research and have an idea of what you are willing to pay for a new acquisition. Sometimes you may want to trade or sell something already in your collection for a more rare or better example.

Seasoned Life Transitions, Inc. consigns collectibles from clients who desire to sell them. We have several items for sale on CollectiblesClearinghouse.com that are inexpensive and a great start or addition to a collection. My top three choices are:

1.  Snuff Bottles

Snuff bottles first appeared in the late 1800’s and were made until the Oriental Snuff Bottle1920’s and 30’s. They were made to hold snuff, but often became appreciated for just a pretty thing to carry.


2.  Old Books

Books as part of a home decor are very important in making a room seem Antique Booksinviting and interesting. Collectible books are great conversation pieces. Who doesn’t have a favorite book or author? Childhood memories of reading about Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer or the Nancy Drew mysteries are thought of fondly.

3.  Occupied Japan Porcelain Figures

Occupied Japan” is a term used for the time period from 1945 (after World Occupied Japan FiguresWar II) through April 25, 1952 which was the time that the Allies were in Japan to help rebuild and renew trade. Many items from porcelain to toys were required to be marked with this designation.



If you are interested in consigning collectibles or acquiring more, visit our website. If you use coupon codeAPPRAISALTABLE” upon checkout, you will get a 15% Discount, plus FREE SHIPPING!

Diary of a Seasoned Life – What Is My Purpose?

Do you find yourself asking your friends, family, God, or just within your own thoughts, “What is my purpose?” It usually gets asked after a life event has occurred and we are full of questions about why things happen. We are facing changes in life and questioning where to go from here. The older we get, the more often it seems that these inevitable changes are happening.

In the last year and a half, so many people who mean the world to me Flooded Househave suffered loss. It is heartbreaking to see the sadness and pain in their eyes. My mother suffered a stroke, one of my closest friends lost his mother, my brother and sister suffered severe flood damage to their homes due to Hurricane Harvey, another dear friend lost his brother and a friend within 3 weeks of each other, my brother’s sister-in-law lost her husband to cancer, and my niece’s husband lost his grandparents within weeks of each other. All of these people, including myself, have asked themselves that question, as well as, “What do I do now?”

You can never go wrong in reaching out to people in pain and offering Funeral Photothem a chance to talk. Just having someone to listen to them is often more helpful than you can imagine. Giving to others often lessens the pain and takes one’s mind off their troubles. Feeling pain after a loss is normal. You can’t cure normal. Only time heals. One’s purpose can simply be to be a good friend or loved one to others and keep living. Those that were lost to us on earth would want us to keep living and moving forward. Remember them fondly and live life for them.

To those that have suffered loss, my heart is with you.

Diary of A Seasoned Life – Let’s Talk About Guns

One of my late father’s hobbies was gun collecting and competitive Owen Lawrence Photoshooting. He was a licensed gun dealer, member of the NRA, and a trained concealed handgun instructor. As can be expected, my siblings and I grew up around guns and were taught by our father to respect a gun’s power and the damage it could cause. We were instructed about how to hold, fire, clean, and store a firearm. When my sister and I became independent and moved into our own apartment, Daddy made sure that we each had a handgun for personal protection.

With all the mass shootings of late, gun control has been a very hot topic. I fully expect some of my readers will object to my topic today, but I personally do not believe that blaming guns or lack of strict gun control laws is the problem. It is not my intention to start a debate here, but only to add a footnote to the subject matter. As part of my studies to become a certified antique appraiser, I studied about guns, swords, and armor. I thought I would share some of what I learned and facts that I thought were most interesting.

Guns and how they are related to a time and place is how a collector begins to appreciate the fact that for more than four centuries, guns were instruments of survival. In America, Kentucky rifles were the first guns of consequence that were made here. They were used in the French and Indian wars (1754-1760) and during Pontiac’s Conspiracy (1763-1765). The French and Indian War was American backwoodsmen fighting against French and Indian allies. Pontiac’s Conspiracy was another conflict between the backwoodsmen and Indians. The Kentucky rifle, was described by Captain John G. W. Dillin in the dedication to his seminal 1924 book, The Kentucky Rifle:

From a flat bar of soft iron, hand forged into a gun barrel; laboriously bored and rifled with crude tools; fitted with a stock hewn from a maple tree in the neighboring forest; and supplied with a lock hammered to shape on the anvil; an unknown smith, in a shop long since silent, fashioned a rifle which changed the whole course of world history; made possible the settlement of a continent; and ultimately freed our country of foreign domination. Light in weight; graceful in line; economical in consumption of powder and lead; fatally precise; distinctly American; it sprang into immediate popularity; and for a hundred years was a model often slightly varied but never radically changed.

Other American guns that changed modern warfare are the Mississippi Civil War Battlerifle, Springfield rifle, Sharps single shot, and Spencer Seven Shooter. The Spencer’s were the first to see action and were designed to meet the needs of the military. They were easier to load than the Colt and other repeaters. Even though they were heavy, they were widely distributed to the Union troops. The Civil War was when the rifle became a truly decisive weapon. The Springfield rifle, in the hands of Federal troops, along with anti-personnel artillery fire, stopped General Lee’s mass assaults at Gettysburg (July 1863) and ended the tactics of the Napoleonic age of warfare (maneuvering masses of troops in open country).

Determining the value of an antique firearm today is greatly dependent Civil War Riflesupon the condition, rarity, and historical association of the weapon. If you are lucky enough to own one of these five rifles, you have a true part of American history. Some recent research revealed that a Kentucky rifle in good condition would be worth about $4000, an 1863 Springfield musket rifle about the same, a Spencer Seven Shooter (rare in good condition) is about $3000, a Sharps single shot is about $2200-$2800, and an 1841 Mississippi rifle is about $3150.

If you are interested in an appraisal on your antiques and collectibles, contact me at 866-653-9669 or email: seasonedlifetransitions@gmail.com .

Diary of A Seasoned Life – What Are the Symptoms of a Stroke?

This morning, I attended a presentation by a representative from Baylor, Scott, & White Medical Center sharing information about stroke and stroke symptoms. I knew most of the people attending the meeting and was keenly aware that at least half of them had been personally affected by stroke through a loved one, including myself. It dawned on me that tomorrow marks the 1.5 year mark since my mother suffered her stroke. Hence, today’s blog about stroke symptoms.

The American Stroke Association states that about 795,000 Americans suffer a new or recurrent stroke each year and it is the 5th leading cause of death in the United States. 37% of all Americans cannot accurately identify even one warning sign of stroke. What exactly is a stroke? It is a brain injury caused when a blood vessel to the brain becomes blocked or bursts, cutting off blood flow and oxygen to the brain. 87% of stroke victims have what is called an Ischemic stroke, which occurs from a blockage in the blood vessels to the brain. The other 13% suffer a hemorrhagic stroke, which is caused by a burst or leaking of blood from the vessels in the brain.

Many stroke victims have a series of “mini strokes” called Transient Ischemic Attacks (TIA’s) before a major stroke. These TIA’s occur when the blood flow to the brain is reduced or partially blocked. They are often written off as something else, instead of the warning signs your body is giving you. You should always consider these warning signs a medical emergency and seek help. Are you or a loved one noticing one side of the face drooping or feeling numb? Ask them to smile. Is there a noticeable upturn in the mouth only on one side? This is a symptom. Arm weakness is another signal. Hold out both arms in front for 10 seconds. Does one arm tend to struggle to stay up? Slurred speech, or even difficulty in speaking at all, is a third symptom. Try to repeat a simple sentence, like “Roses are red.” If it cannot be successfully repeated, get to the hospital or call 911.

Other symptoms that could indicate a TIA or stroke occurring are:

  • sudden numbness or weakness in a leg
  • sudden confusion or trouble understanding
  • sudden trouble seeing in one or both eyes
  • sudden trouble walking, dizziness, loss of balance or coordination
  • sudden severe headache with no known cause

If you are or a loved one thinks a stroke is happening, call 911 and check the time that the first symptoms appeared. This is important in proper treatment at the hospital. The sooner a stroke victim gets medical treatment, the better the chances they will survive or get better. Of course, you want to prevent a stroke from ever happening, so being more health conscious is a must. Don’t smoke, exercise regularly, lose excess weight, lower cholesterol, eat less sodium, and control high blood pressure.

In my mom’s case, she was overweight and did not exercise regularly. She

Mom Working with Physical Therapist

did have high blood pressure and was taking medications to control it. For several months prior to her stroke, she complained of dizziness and an inability to keep her balance. She did go to the doctor and was diagnosed with vertigo. She got better for a while, but eventually, the dizziness returned. If she had not self diagnosed it as vertigo again and convinced herself that there was nothing that could be done, she might have been able to get her doctor to check for clogged arteries via an MRI. Her stroke was major, but she survived. Today, she is still paralyzed on her right side and suffers from aphasia. She is able to do many things, but she can no longer live on her own.

I hope this information helps someone else prevent their life from being changed in a heartbeat. You can find out more information at strokeassociation.org and heartcheckmark.org .

Diary of a Seasoned Life – Is Milk Glass Worth Anything?

Although milk glass is rising again in popularity, it’s value is dependent Milk Glass Bowlon its age, quality, and condition. Most of the milk glass seen in flea markets and antique malls is from the 1940’s and 50’s that were once wedding gifts to brides during that time. Much of the quality is not as nice as the much older versions of milk glass that are true antiques. There is also a large supply of really cheap milk glass that came from the floral shops in the late 20th Century. How do you tell the difference in quality and old versus new?

The first way is to feel the glass. Older, quality milk glass has a very smooth, silky feel. Newer, cheaper glass will have more texture or have a grainy feel. Many pieces of antique milk glass have some marks to help identify it. A “C” shaped rough spot on the foot of the glass was formed in the molding. You will not find this mark on new pieces. Also, older milk glass has less blue tone in the color and the glass is heavier. Ellen Schroy, author of “Warman’s Depression Glass”, states that older milk glass has a “ring of fire. You hold the piece up in the sunlight to look for a halo of iridescent colors right around the edge, look for reds, blues and golds. This ring was caused by the addition of iridized salts into the milk glass formula. If this ring is present, it’s probably an old piece.” Appropriate patterns for specific makers are also something to watch for, such as Fenton’s “Hobnail” pattern. Collectors should always check for condition issues such as damage and discoloration. According to Schroy, there is no remedy for discolored glass, and cracked and chipped pieces should be avoided, as they are prone to further damage.

The cheap floral industry milk glass vases, bowls, flower pots from the Cheap Floral Milk Glass1960’s and 70’s, Schroy advises, “… are pale, usually widely spaced hollow back hobnails patterns. If you find these pieces at garage sales, flea markets, and can pick them up cheaply, they make cute containers for bathroom accessories, etc., but probably will never appreciate much in value.”

Values on the older and larger functional pieces, such as a Fenton Hobnail cake platter on a pedestal, are higher. Today, you can expect around $60 for the cake plate. According to milkglass.org, some of the more desirable items are:

The Fenton Hobnail Punch Bowl that comes with 12 cups is worth $666. Milk Glass Punch Bowl
The 11” Westmoreland Paneled Grape Cannister is valued at $205.
A Lace Edged Pedestal Banana Bowl is valued at $69.
Fenton Hobnail Toothpick Holder you can find for $42.

If you have some milk glass that you would like appraised, contact Seasoned Life Transitions. Kim Lawrence is a certified antique appraiser and graduate of the Asheford Institute of Antiques.

www.seasonedlifetransitions.com or call 866-653-9669


Diary of a Seasoned Life – Our Love for Barbie

Of all the toys I played with as a child, my Barbie doll and friends were my favorite by far. Even now, I cannot part with the dolls I played with as a child. Since the introduction of Barbie in 1959, the world has been in love with her, too.

In 1945, Ruth and Elliott Handler and a friend, Harold Matson, founded Mattel. At first, they manufactured picture frames. Mr. Handler started using the scraps of wood to make doll furniture, hence the toy business began. Due to illness, Mr. Matson left the business after the first few years. The creation of toys was Elliott’s responsibility and the marketing was Ruth’s. In 1955, Ruth used a large part of the company’s funds to advertise their toys as a sponsor of the TV show, “The Mickey Mouse Club”. This helped grow the business tremendously.

In 1958, the Handler’s patented a fashion doll, named Barbie. I have two 1959 Barbie Dolldifferent versions of how her name came about. According to “The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Barbie Dolls & Collectibles” by Sibyl DeWein & Joan Ashabraner, Ruth named the doll after her daughter. My studies at the Asheford Institute of Antiques stated that Barbie was based on a doll called, “Bildhilli” from Europe that Ruth Handler came across in her travels. They both agree that Barbie was first introduced at the American Toy Fair in 1959 held in New York. The first Barbie doll was sold that year. Mattel became a major player in toys due to Barbie.

The very first dolls are very rare and collectible today. The first release doll had metal cylinders in both legs with openings at the feet. These were used to attach the doll to a pedestal stand with two prongs. These holes are the easiest way to identify the first release doll. She came with either blonde or brunette hair (twice as many blondes were made as the brunettes) that was in a ponytail with curly bangs. Barbie had bright red lips and nails, heavy eyeliner, arched eyebrows, white irises in her eyes (not blue), black and white striped one piece bathing suit, black high heel sandals, gold hoop earrings, sunglasses, booklet, and a box.

If you are lucky enough to have a brunette Barbie with all the accessories and box, as well as, in good condition, you have a true treasure! A few have sold at auction for over $25,000. The 2nd release doll averages a value of $6000 and a doll without the box averages $4500. Later models are still collectible, but the values go down quite a bit. After the second release, the number 3 Barbie averages $400. Dolls from the first half of the 1960’s are the most valuable. A doll’s condition is extremely important in determining value, as well as, if it still has its original outfit and accessories. It does help if you can dress it in an original outfit of its time. Some of the clothes and accessories are very collectible, as well.

As the year’s went by, Mattel released many friends of Barbie, including Ken, Midge, Skipper, Francie, Casey, Stacey, Tutti, Todd, Allan, Skooter, Chris, Curtis, and Christie. These dolls are collectible, too, but not as valuable as Barbie. A 1971 Twist-n-Turn Francie doll is probably the most valuable friend at about $1500 (in a box and in excellent condition).

Here is the sad news. If you invested very much money in the Collector’s Millennial BarbieSeries dolls that were made in the 1980’s and onward, you will be disappointed to know that they are not worth more than you paid 20-30 years ago. The reason for this is mass production. Mattel made millions of these dolls and many of them are still around (even in an unopened box). These dolls may have cost anywhere from $25 and up when they first came out. Today, you would be lucky to get what you paid for it.

My dolls, which include a 1960’s Ken and Stacey; 1971 Living Barbie; 1960’s Skippers; 1970’s Barbie; and a 1960’s Midge were all well played My Old Dollswith and probably more valuable to me in the memories of playing with them endlessly as a child. What was your favorite toy?

See some of the collectible toys available on our collectibles website:

www.collectiblesclearinghouse.com . If you have some collectible toys you would like to consign with us, give me a call or email below:

866-653-9669  or seasonedlifetransitions@gmail.com


Diary of a Seasoned Life – Discovering Old Toys

During an appraisal event recently, I got a chance to see something very Buddy L Cement Mixerspecial in the vintage toy category – an old Buddy L toy Cement Mixer. It was very rusty and dirty, so it took me a few minutes to find the labels on the piece to help identify it. The lady who brought the piece in had no idea what it was and said it had been out in the yard and then moved into her garage for a number of years. Little did she know what a buried treasure she had found!

Fred A. Lundahl owned Moline Pressed Steel Co. in the early 1900’s. The Cleaner Buddy L Mixercompany was in the automobile parts business, but started making metal toys in 1921. He made toys for his son out of scrap metal and turned that into a business. They made pull toys, small trucks and other work vehicles, and large vehicles children could ride. Buddy L was considered a pioneer in the steel toy field and held contracts with Marshall Fields and F. A. O. Schwarz. The company was sold during the depression.

Earlier toys are generally higher quality and built to last. They are very desired by collectors and can bring a high price. The toys made later are still valued and sought after. Values depend upon rarity and condition. Even though this lady’s toy was in very rusty condition, it is still collectible and very valuable. I encouraged her to clean up some of the dirt and dust, but to be very careful about any other restoration of the toy. NEVER try to repaint an old metal toy (or wooden toys). It may look prettier, but it will destroy the value. I felt quite confident her toy was made prior to the sale of the toy line, which was in the 1930’s, dating her piece to the 1920’s. I appraised the piece to be around $700. Needless, to say, I recommended she find a better place to store the toy from now on!

Any old toy, especially made prior to 1900, is collectible. Always try to 1940 Buddy L Baggage Truckkeep its original condition and labeling. If there is a box, make sure to keep the box and the toy together. That will increase its value. Early cast iron banks, cap guns, horse drawn carriages, pull toys, tools, figures, trains, and animals are sought after collectibles. If you are seeking to buy these items, just be careful of reproductions. Most toys of age will have a certain patina, show signs of wear, have older construction methods, and older types of paints that cannot be used today (lead).

We happen to have a Buddy L toy truck listed for sale on https://collectiblesclearinghouse.com/collections/toys/products/1940-buddy-l-metal-toy-baggage-truck

For those interested in learning more about Buddy L toys, they have a museum. Here is the link to their website: http://www.buddylmuseum.com/

If you have collectibles you would like to consign with Seasoned Life Transitions, please contact us. There is a contact link on the blog or you can email us from our website: www.seasonedlifetransitions.com . You can call our toll free number 866-653-9669.

Diary of a Seasoned Life – Prevent Being Scammed

The City of Rockwall Police Department has been making an effort recently in trying to get the word out to protect seniors or seasoned life people against current scams. The police have received multiple reports of certain types of scams that have a common theme.

One of the scams that is very rampant is someone calling to say they are with the IRS and wanting to warn you that you are about to be arrested for overdue taxes. They try to get you to pay now to avoid being arrested. The most important thing to know in these situations is that the IRS will never call you about back taxes. They will communicate via mail, if there is an issue. Just hang up!

Caller ID is a valuable tool in helping to determine if the person who is calling is familiar to you.  Although there are some scammers who have the technology and devices to fake a phone number on caller ID, I suggest that you just don’t answer the phone for any number that is not from someone you know. If it is important, let them leave a voice mail. If you happen to still have an answering machine, you can listen to the first bits of the message to determine whether to pick up the call. Most telephone marketers and scammers will not bother to leave a message.

Another scam the police mentioned is someone calling pretending to be a family member who has had an emergency and needs money wired right away. Many times these are scammers who have seen names on social media and garnered enough information to convince you that they are your relative. You can always throw out a question to this person that only the real person would know, but it needs to be something that cannot be found out through Facebook or other social media. Another tactic is to tell the person you will call them right back. A scammer will try to pressure you into getting the money and convince you to not hang up. The real relative should be fine waiting a minute. Obviously, if it was a scammer, you will call your relative and discover it was not them who called.

The police also warned of in person scams that become more a problem as the holiday shopping season begins. Scammers are casing parking lots of shopping centers or malls looking for people “who are interested in a great deal” on an XBOX or Apple tablet (or some other highly desirable item). They will claim they overbought and the boss is on their case to move the merchandise at any cost. The motto of “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” is what the police suggest you keep in mind. Much of the time that $100 XBOX was a box filled with rocks. I would like to add that you just pass anyone by in the parking lot that approaches you with a simple, “No thank you.”

Another type of scam I would like to discuss is what is called “phishing”. Phishing is an email scam that comes in a variety of ways, but the one thing in common is that they always are trying to get you to log into some account, whether it be your email account, bank account, credit card account, Facebook, and so on. The emails usually claim they are requiring an update in your account information or there is some problem and they provide a link in the body of the email for you to use to log in to your account. These emails often look very official with company logos and addresses. Do not fall for it. These links are taking you to a fake website that when you enter your user name and password, they have now captured your information to hack your account. When you get any email that looks like this and you are not sure, open a new tab in your browser and type in the web address for the company who (supposedly) sent the email. Log in from the company website. If they truly sent you a message, you should see some notice in your account messages prompting you with instructions.

It is also important to also be cautious of opening attached files from emails of people or companies for which you currently have no relationship. These attachments are often filled with viruses that can harm your computer or steal your information. If you have a wireless router in your home, be sure to make it password protected. This will help prevent scammers from hacking into your devices.

The main message in all of these types of scams, is to BE CAUTIOUS. Do not make it easy on scammers to take advantage of you. Don’t answer the phone, door, or emails from people you do not know. If it was truly important, they will leave a note, message, or send you a letter in the mail.

Diary of a Seasoned Life – How to “Antique” Furniture

One of the hottest trends in bringing older furniture back to life is refinishing it with a rustic look. There are now tons of stores selling brands of chalk paint and even offering classes for the do-it-yourself people. Although chalk paint is the trend right now, you will not find many professional furniture re-finishers using it.

In my studies with Asheford Institute of Antiques, I learned, in great detail, various methods of repairing and restoring furniture. They provided great instruction on adding an antique finish to certain pieces of furniture. This method should only be used on old wooden furniture that are not true antiques. You can increase the value of natural wood furniture that has already lost much of its desirability due to prior poorly executed refinishing, being out of date, or damaged by stains or deep scratches.

Some call this method antiquing or shabby chic, which is a little rough around the edges and results in a look that is more similar to unrestored antique furniture. Here is what you will need:

  1. Medium and Fine Sandpaper
  2. Flat White Paint for the basecoat
  3. Any flat pastel or white paint for the final coat
  4. Tube of raw (burnt) turkey umber oil (oil paint)
  5. Turpentine
  6. Clear Waterproof Flat Varnish
  7. Paint and Varnish Brushes
  8. Soft Clean Rags
  9. Boiled Linseed Oil
  10. Pumice Powder

You will need to first completely clean with soap and water the piece of furniture. Sanding is the next step, but it is not necessary to completely remove all the old finish. Sand just enough to allow the base coat of paint to adhere. Always use a flat white paint for the base coat due the the fact that old dark stains will bleed through any pastel shades. If the finish is very dark, it may require more than one coat of the primer paint. The final coat of base paint must be allowed to dry completely before any further steps or decoration. You can check for any tackiness to determine when it is dry. It is important the final coat be smooth, which may mean a little more light sanding.

You can add decoration (monograms, added carved elements, painted artwork, metal or other materials) to the piece at this stage, if desired. Oil paints, such as an artist’s paint, would be used for decoration. If you hand painted some decorations, it may take days for the oil paints to completely dry. In some cases, it might take two weeks. You must be patient in this stage to get a good result.

Now you can apply a coat of flat varnish to protect the section of the piece with your decoration, and let it dry for 24 hours. When it is dry, you can now add the overtone to the furniture. The formula for a medium-dark overtone is 2 tablespoons of the raw turkey umber, 3 tablespoons of turpentine, 1 tablespoon of clear waterproof varnish, and a drop of linseed oil. Squeeze the burnt umber into a jar, add the turpentine, and mix with a brush. Next, add the varnish and mix well. Finally, add a drop of the linseed oil. The linseed oil keeps the mixture from drying too quickly. Follow those steps to the tea for the right result!

The overtone is applied with a two inch brush and then, using a piece of soft clean cloth, rub off the overtone that you just applied using circular motions. The center or top of a panel should be lighter than the sides. This will leave the darker tones in the cracks and depressions of the piece or any carving. When the overtone is first put on, it will appear dark, but do not worry as it wipes off easily leaving an elegant parchment type of appearance. Wait 12 hours for the overtone to dry.

Once the overtone is dry, you can apply the flat varnish to give protection to the overtone. As the piece ages, this varnish will enhance the appearance of the piece. Doing any type of re-finishing on furniture requires patience. Do not rush it. Try this treatment on a small inexpensive piece to gain experience before tackling a bigger piece.

If you try this, send me photos of your before and after. I would love to see a once loved item become lovable again!